dinsdag 27 november 2012

zondag 4 november 2012

Dutch National Championship.....place 4

A bit late, but nonetheless......semi finals in the Dutch Championship went ok. First boulder was easy....second boulder I messed up by trying too hard, so I only topped it in my final and 3rd try. 3rd boulder was my style (at least the shortcut) mantle into a corner and just walk up! 4th boulder was a little bit harder bout managed to top at once as well!

The finals were a bit harder and I notived in the first boudler that I wasn't at my best at the moment. So first boulder (very technical) was a no go for me! Second boulder was as tension problem with a dinamic ending. Managed to 3/4 in the first try but didnt know what to do with the two slopers. second try I messed up a small dynamic move in the beginning so it had to be the 3rd try. (again 2nd boulder 3rd try important). I managed to get to the last move but was so pumped that there was nog fast power left....tried to mantle into the corner but that was no go. That moment I kind of knew that the first place was no go anymore as there would be at least 3 tops in this boulder.

Then 3rd boulder was a volume problem with a mantle...I like! my style all over, but unfortunately there was no real power left in my body and I couldn't do the mantle. no top again! I was a little ashamed as I normally really like these kind of things and now there was no possibily for me.

4th problem was a double dyno a little bit to the side. I managed to do it 3rd or 4th try and luckily the top out was not that hard. I felt a huge relieve that I could at least top 1 boulder and it gave me the 4th place!

Underneath the official NKBV video of the comp.

vrijdag 28 september 2012

Dutch National Championship 2012 in Rotterdam

Dutch championship is on: Saturday the 29th of September!

It takes place in the center of Rotterdam....will I be able to climb better then last year and make it to the podium again? Come and see for yourself!

Nk, boulderen, Hans Busker

World Championship in Paris

As a member of the Dutch National Team i got to compete in the World Championship Bouldering in Paris. Unfortunately I got sick on the Saturday before. Although I really hoped everything would be ok on the day I had to climb....it wasnt supposed to be that way.
I had a small fever so I was weak as hell. I couldnt even top the first boulder which was suposed to be around 7A if you did it with the bold holds instead of the holds itself. (why were they not closed?!)

World Championship 2012, Bercy

Although the organisation was a bit French (f.e. isolations closes at 8am while at 7.55am 75% of the athletes where still waiting in line) the competition was great at an almost perfect location! Never knew that so may people would enjoy watching climbing!

At the end I reallly enjoyed watching al the others compete and had a great week sightseeing in Paris, but the comp self was a bit disappointing. Especially as this was the first time in almost a year where I felt pretty strong and confident (before I got sick of course). It really got me motivated to train harder and make sure I wont get an injury anymore.

And we had 2 great sessions in BlockBuster, one of the climbing gyms in Paris. Tonde (from L'Ouvre-Boite) had set up 4 mens and 4 womens boulder problems for practise. Great boulders, great gym!

Dutch Climbing Team, Hans Busker, Blocbuster, Nederlands Team sportklimmen
The Dutch Team at the gym

dinsdag 4 september 2012

Worldcup Munich

The last world up of this season has ended....the worldcup in Munich. Beautiful location (Olympic stadium of 1972 with its remarkable roof).

Fr the first time since last year December I had no finger injury. It was only 4 days before the comp that I had no more pain! A bit too late to get my finger strength back, but on time to be able to climb free and without a blockade.

I felt pretty strong during the warming up and started with confidence. First boulder felt very easy and was able to flash it. In the second boulder I did not see how to make the second move so it took me a while (in my first try) to figure it out. Once I found out I had to make a knee drop I was so pumped I couldn't end the boulder. I had to wait long before making a second try. Still a bit pumped unfortunately I couldn't get past the bonus hold.

3th boulder was balance all over. Start with both hands and feet on a big volume. Somehow I was unable to find my balance so took me a million tries to do the first move. After 4,5 minutes I was able to get to the second hold (with the wrong hand) had to match and jumped to fast the the third hold. Nothing....

4th boulder had to start with a heel hook and thanks to my new shoes (Five Ten dragon) that was no problem at all! Too bad the second hold was pretty slippery....first few tries I zipped every time I tried to jump from the second hold to the corner. Te only time I didn't zip I managed to get the corner but forgot to get it hit enough to make the little people move (very high foothold).

The last bouder was a tricky one. You had to make a dynamic side move while throwing your left foot up into a toe hook at the same time. And of course I did not see it, while normally these kind of strange boulders are my favorite. I tried many different things including a lay down start, but not the right method...

I felt like I could have done a lot more. Too bad! Luckily I still have 1 more comp to go:  the World Championship in Paris! As I still feel strong and it looks like I am getting stronger every day know (thanks to pain free climbing and crimping like hell) I have good hope that I can make up for this season in Paris.

maandag 16 juli 2012

Back to Bleau (comp)

There was another local competition last Sunday the 8th of July. It was called back to Bleau in Klimmuur centraal.
I arrived at 11.30 and there were just a few competitors/climbers. Probably because of the really bad weather....I just did a small warm up session before a small break with coffee and pie :-) Then the people started coming in and it got pretty crowded! There were some really nice problems set by Casper, Roman, Rogier and I guess many others...I managed to do most of the hardest boulders which gave me the first place and a nice crash pad from Edelrid. Unfortunately I cannot make it to the final on the 8th of September due to other obligations....so I wish the other finalists all the best!

Thanks for the great boulders!