dinsdag 4 september 2012

Worldcup Munich

The last world up of this season has ended....the worldcup in Munich. Beautiful location (Olympic stadium of 1972 with its remarkable roof).

Fr the first time since last year December I had no finger injury. It was only 4 days before the comp that I had no more pain! A bit too late to get my finger strength back, but on time to be able to climb free and without a blockade.

I felt pretty strong during the warming up and started with confidence. First boulder felt very easy and was able to flash it. In the second boulder I did not see how to make the second move so it took me a while (in my first try) to figure it out. Once I found out I had to make a knee drop I was so pumped I couldn't end the boulder. I had to wait long before making a second try. Still a bit pumped unfortunately I couldn't get past the bonus hold.

3th boulder was balance all over. Start with both hands and feet on a big volume. Somehow I was unable to find my balance so took me a million tries to do the first move. After 4,5 minutes I was able to get to the second hold (with the wrong hand) had to match and jumped to fast the the third hold. Nothing....

4th boulder had to start with a heel hook and thanks to my new shoes (Five Ten dragon) that was no problem at all! Too bad the second hold was pretty slippery....first few tries I zipped every time I tried to jump from the second hold to the corner. Te only time I didn't zip I managed to get the corner but forgot to get it hit enough to make the little people move (very high foothold).

The last bouder was a tricky one. You had to make a dynamic side move while throwing your left foot up into a toe hook at the same time. And of course I did not see it, while normally these kind of strange boulders are my favorite. I tried many different things including a lay down start, but not the right method...

I felt like I could have done a lot more. Too bad! Luckily I still have 1 more comp to go:  the World Championship in Paris! As I still feel strong and it looks like I am getting stronger every day know (thanks to pain free climbing and crimping like hell) I have good hope that I can make up for this season in Paris.

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