woensdag 23 mei 2012

Worldcup bouldering Innsbruck 2012

My third worldcup this year.
I had to start last this time....I really should get some ranking points so that wont happen again!  Problem with starting last this time was the temperature. In the morning it was around 9 degrees....once I had to start (13.00) it was around 24 degrees. Sweaty hands, slippery slopers and not strong enough to be able to hold on.
I did feel pretty strong though and finally could climb as I wanted, so up for Vail!

First boulder was a bit too easy I think. I wanted to use my length for the last move and was a bit insecure if I could make it or if I should stand higer....but I did, so I flashed it.

Second boulder I got to the bonus in 1 try, then on to the next hold, a side sloper. I was really slippery so I went back to the previous hold to try another method. That didn't work. Tried a couple of times but couldn't get past the sloper.

Third boulder was a nice start, a sort of mantle on a volume. Then onto 2 small side edges (bonus in 1 try) and then jump sideways. Hard part of the jump was that you had to grab the next hold and simultaneously kick your foot to the sidewall. 3rd try I managed to come close but missed the sidewall at an inch....almost a rasped skin..... 4th try I jump, kicked my foot to the sidewall but not fast enough to build up pressure....no top again.

Fourth boulder was not my style, edges, cross over edges....I really need to get stronger in this kind of climbing. I managed to do the first 2 moves but no more.

Fifth boulder was supposed to be mine. mantle, volumes, and balance. All the things I really like. Unfortunately it took me about 10 times to do the first move because I totally messed up in my head. once I finally got to the bonus hold I only had 10 seconds left for the ending and that was not enough....too bad.

worldcup, Hans Busker, Innsbruck, climbing, bouldering, volumes

bouldering, Innsbruck, Hans Busker, climbing, worldcup, snow, mountain

bouldering, climbing, finals, Hans Busker, worldcup, Innsbruck, snow, mountains

Comp was over for me.....semis and finals were great to watch though and on Monday I had a good training session with Jorg, Nicky, Katha, Jacob and for a few minutes Melissa. After that I flew back to Amsterdam for some necessary working. Then Friday off to Vail!
airplane, bouldering, climbing, worldcup, Innsbruck, Hans Busker

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