zondag 10 juni 2012

Late report of the World Cup in Vail

vail, teva mountain games, Hans Busker, bouldering, climbing, volumes, worldcup


A little late report of the world cup at the Vail Teva games due to outside climbing, flying, jet lag, work and some more catching up with work.

As I did too much the days I arrived in the US of A I took 3 resting days before the world cup started. Just to be sure my elbows were ready for the impact of the American style boulders...dynamic fitness tests with some technical British moves from the route-setter.
In the isolation I felt pretty strong. Because it was hot in the isolation I didn't want to do too much in the warming up....big mistake.

First boulder was a nice mantle followed by a balancing move to a move with an arete. First try I messed up my balance so I needed a second try. Second try I passed the balance move, got to the arete and then on my favorite move (foot to hand while balancing on a 1hand plant) my hand slipped. I was standing on the ground again and was completely pumped....bad warming up and the elevation is not helping either (9600f, or 2400 meters). I saw that the judges put up 0-0 (no bonus, no top) and I was convinced I touched the bonus hold. But stupid enough I was told by my teammates that I totally forgot to touch it....good lesson for next time....keep thinking and make sure to keep focused on the goals: bonus and top.

Second Boulder: Long move to an under-cling, next to the arete, match the under-cling, 2 pinches with a knee-bar, then jump to the good bonus hold. After that some more pinching to an arete and the finish jug. I was still pumped before starting the second boulder and in my first try I forgot to use the arete. Second try I did use the arete got to 2 under-clings and noticed that I couldn't get the knee-bar in. I tried hard to do it anyway, pushed my knee forward, slipped of the tiny foothold and bumped my knee on the stupid hold.....that hurts! 3th try (still pumped like hell) I got to the 2 pinches after the under-cling without making use of the knee-jam but lacked the strength to get to the bonus hold.

Third boulder: Easy compression to a big move with a heelhook. Crossover to a tiny crimp, lock off to the arete and finish on a jug. Still very pumped I couldn't get through the big move, so no bonus again. I really need to warm up better and start doing some lead training or 14 move boulders! This is not good......

Fourth boulder: long move to a sloper with right hand, left hand to another sloper (the same)whit a heelhook on the starting hold, side move to another sloper (the same), move up to a side-pull, then to a small crimp, on to the finish pinch while standing against the sidewall. First move went well, second move went well, while going for the bonus hold my heelhook came out and I was standing on the ground again. Second try I managed to get to the bonus hold and then I tried (stupid enough) to do the small people solution by getting my heelhook on the first sloper. I should have reach the sidepull while keeping my heelhook in place! Fourth try....exactly the same. :-(

Fifth boulder: Sloper to a good hold, then undercling and a big cross over to a small crimp. Stand on friction (wooden wall, so not really friction) and walk over to a tiny foothold. Then to another crimp with your right hand (bonus), under crimp left hand and to a sloper with your right hand. left foot up to the 3th hold and go for the top hold (pincher). First try I missed the tiny foothold. Second try I was a little more dedicated and thanks to the cheering of my teammates I really wanted to do it right this time. I got to the bonus hold but was to tired to get to the undercling. Next try I picked up all the energy left and tried as hard as possible. Somehow the moves were not that hard anymore (although it felt like there was more lactic acid than blood in my veins) and I got to the last move. Due to focus I forgot to get my left foot on higher crimp and went for a jump to the last hold......not very smart as the last hold was a pinch and not possible for me to jump to. So no top and a very low place in the rankings although the climbing went ok again (despite the pumped forearms).

Conclusion: a good week of great fun with nice people but got to train to get a lot stronger!

An impression of the climbing: (the lens was a bit dirty, so not the best quality).

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