Specialist tomorrow

Tomorrow I'll be seeing a specialist for the ongoing finger injury. Hope he fixes it in a day so I can start training for all the comps end August and September!

Late report of the World Cup in Vail

A little late report of the world cup at the Vail Teva games due to outside climbing, flying, jet lag, work and some more catching up with work.

As I did too much the days I arrived in the US of A I took 3 resting days before the world cup started. Just to be sure my elbows were ready for the impact of the American style boulders...dynamic fitness tests with some technical British moves from the route-setter.
In the isolation I felt pretty strong. Because it was hot in the isolation I didn't want to do too much in the warming up....big mistake.

First boulder was a nice mantle followed by a balancing move to a move with an arete. First try I messed up my balance so I needed a second try. Second try I passed the balance move, got to the arete and then on my favorite move (foot to hand while balancing on a 1hand plant) my hand slipped. I was standing on the ground again and was completely pumped....bad warming up and the elevation is not helping either (9600f, or 2400 meters). I saw that the judges put up 0-0 (no bonus, no top) and I was convinced I touched the bonus hold. But stupid enough I was told by my teammates that I totally forgot to touch it....good lesson for next time....keep thinking and make sure to keep focused on the goals: bonus and top.

Second Boulder: Long move to an under-cling, next to the arete, match the under-cling, 2 pinches with a knee-bar, then jump to the good bonus hold. After that some more pinching to an arete and the finish jug. I was still pumped before starting the second boulder and in my first try I forgot to use the arete. Second try I did use the arete got to 2 under-clings and noticed that I couldn't get the knee-bar in. I tried hard to do it anyway, pushed my knee forward, slipped of the tiny foothold and bumped my knee on the stupid hold.....that hurts! 3th try (still pumped like hell) I got to the 2 pinches after the under-cling without making use of the knee-jam but lacked the strength to get to the bonus hold.

Third boulder: Easy compression to a big move with a heelhook. Crossover to a tiny crimp, lock off to the arete and finish on a jug. Still very pumped I couldn't get through the big move, so no bonus again. I really need to warm up better and start doing some lead training or 14 move boulders! This is not good......

Fourth boulder: long move to a sloper with right hand, left hand to another sloper (the same)whit a heelhook on the starting hold, side move to another sloper (the same), move up to a side-pull, then to a small crimp, on to the finish pinch while standing against the sidewall. First move went well, second move went well, while going for the bonus hold my heelhook came out and I was standing on the ground again. Second try I managed to get to the bonus hold and then I tried (stupid enough) to do the small people solution by getting my heelhook on the first sloper. I should have reach the sidepull while keeping my heelhook in place! Fourth try....exactly the same. :-(

Fifth boulder: Sloper to a good hold, then undercling and a big cross over to a small crimp. Stand on friction (wooden wall, so not really friction) and walk over to a tiny foothold. Then to another crimp with your right hand (bonus), under crimp left hand and to a sloper with your right hand. left foot up to the 3th hold and go for the top hold (pincher). First try I missed the tiny foothold. Second try I was a little more dedicated and thanks to the cheering of my teammates I really wanted to do it right this time. I got to the bonus hold but was to tired to get to the undercling. Next try I picked up all the energy left and tried as hard as possible. Somehow the moves were not that hard anymore (although it felt like there was more lactic acid than blood in my veins) and I got to the last move. Due to focus I forgot to get my left foot on higher crimp and went for a jump to the last hold......not very smart as the last hold was a pinch and not possible for me to jump to. So no top and a very low place in the rankings although the climbing went ok again (despite the pumped forearms).

Conclusion: a good week of great fun with nice people but got to train to get a lot stronger!

An impression of the climbing: (the lens was a bit dirty, so not the best quality).

World Cup Bouldering in Vail starts tomorrow!

The world cup in vail starts tomorrow at 10am local time (18.00 in the Netherlands). The men start at 3pm (23.00 in the Netherlands).

And I'll start as 36th (1 group) so that will be around 6pm (2 uur 's nachts in Amsterdam).

 Of course live through www.ifsc.tv

US of A! Training with a jetlag.

Yesterday, The day after arriving in Denver, Colorado, I decided to do something active. First to get used to the high altitude and second to get rid of the jetlag. So we (Mirthe and Pascal) went to Pikes Peak. A 14,150 feet mountain. of course we went up the American way.....by car! In European terms there was a highway all the way up the mountain.

There were some beautiful scenics during the trip and once we got on top it was pretty windy. I tried to run for a 100meters and then I noticed I got a little bit dizzy and I could feel the height. After a little bit of walking around we went back down to Ute Pass (8,500ft) for some outdoor bouldering. Again with some more active hiking to the boulders.

After 2 hours of bouldering we went to the local climbing gym in Colorado Springs(6,00ft). It was there were the jetlag really hit me....I couldn't get up a V7 because of unnatural pumped forearms. Good thing I arrived a week before the world up in Vail, otherwise I might have had it in the comp. Afterwards a good steak for recovering and a good might sleep....the today to the Spot in Boulder for some more training!

Worldcup bouldering Innsbruck 2012

My third worldcup this year.
I had to start last this time....I really should get some ranking points so that wont happen again!  Problem with starting last this time was the temperature. In the morning it was around 9 degrees....once I had to start (13.00) it was around 24 degrees. Sweaty hands, slippery slopers and not strong enough to be able to hold on.
I did feel pretty strong though and finally could climb as I wanted, so up for Vail!

First boulder was a bit too easy I think. I wanted to use my length for the last move and was a bit insecure if I could make it or if I should stand higer....but I did, so I flashed it.

Second boulder I got to the bonus in 1 try, then on to the next hold, a side sloper. I was really slippery so I went back to the previous hold to try another method. That didn't work. Tried a couple of times but couldn't get past the sloper.

Third boulder was a nice start, a sort of mantle on a volume. Then onto 2 small side edges (bonus in 1 try) and then jump sideways. Hard part of the jump was that you had to grab the next hold and simultaneously kick your foot to the sidewall. 3rd try I managed to come close but missed the sidewall at an inch....almost a rasped skin..... 4th try I jump, kicked my foot to the sidewall but not fast enough to build up pressure....no top again.

Fourth boulder was not my style, edges, cross over edges....I really need to get stronger in this kind of climbing. I managed to do the first 2 moves but no more.

Fifth boulder was supposed to be mine. mantle, volumes, and balance. All the things I really like. Unfortunately it took me about 10 times to do the first move because I totally messed up in my head. once I finally got to the bonus hold I only had 10 seconds left for the ending and that was not enough....too bad.

Comp was over for me.....semis and finals were great to watch though and on Monday I had a good training session with Jorg, Nicky, Katha, Jacob and for a few minutes Melissa. After that I flew back to Amsterdam for some necessary working. Then Friday off to Vail!

On my way to Innsbruck

In a few hours I will travel to Innsbruck for my third world-cup bouldering of this season. It will be the first time that Innsbruck is organizing a world-cup bouldering (although they already organized the European Championship, so it should be good!)

You can watch the comp live on www.ifsc.tv at Friday and Saturday.

Last training before the worldcup in Innsbruck

Yesterday I had my last training before the worldcup in Innsbruck. I went to the climbing gym at Amsterdam Centraal to get some on sight training. For the first in a long time I finally felt pretty strong. Besides that my injured middle finger is getting better by the day. So feeling good for the comp!

follow the worldcup live at www.ifsc.tv on Friday and Saturday!